Cultural Moments on Fatima's Birthday

This past Sunday the Shi'a Muslim community celebrated the birthday of Fatima- The Prophet Muhammed’s daughter. This day is also considered National Women's Day in Iran and I would wager from the celebration here in Ganja also for most of Azerbaijan's religious community. (Azerbaijan is also predominantly Shi'a Muslim) Fatima is considered to be the greatest women who ever lived. She is the leader of women in paradise and,the model for female piety.
After Muhammad died there was a significant conflict surrounding who should succeed him as leader of the Muslim community. His young wife's father Abu Bakr or his daughter's husband (also Muhammad's cousin) Ali. There was a conflict and Abu Bakr took the throne, which according to the Shi'a faith, went against the wishes of Muhammad. Fatima and Ali would not swear allegiance to Abu Bakr. An angry group, led by a co-conspirator of Abu Bakr, threatened to burn down Fatima and Ali's home. The mob broke down the door and Fatima was injured in the struggle and lost her unborn baby. She died not long after and was secretly burned and burried at night so that only people loyal to Ali would attend.

Disclaimer: This is definitely only one very brief version of the story. This entire issues is what divides the Muslim community into Shia's and Sunnis. And as most of you know they are still fighting with each other in many parts of the world. Its complicated so do your own research!

To commerate her birthday there was a week-long exhibit at the Ganja Historical Museum. A volunteer at the Leaders School, Elvin, helped organize the exhibit. Shahla, her children, her friend Turana, and I all decided to go and see the exhibit.
It consisted of different framed posters many with very intricate designs and beautiful Arabic script. One poster depicted the burning of Fatima’s door. And another of Fatima’s son placing flowers on her grave. There were also various decorative plates with Arabic script. I have to admit that the exhibit wasn’t quite what I expected but was interesting none the less.

Afterwards Elvin- who showed us around the exhibit and explained the posters to me in English- invited us to a concert and celebration. Then came my first cultural faux pas of the evening ( or at least the first one that I am aware of.- I’m sure I’m a walking faux pas here without meaning to be.) Elvin introduced me to his friend and I went to shake his hand – as Americans do when they meet people for the first time- but his friend did not return the handshake and gave me a strange look. Then I remembered, because I had read it somewhere- that men and women do not shake hands here. (Especially more religious people) I felt very stupid and ashamed- more because I knew the custom but forgot and managed to insult this man and make Americans look dumb.

But wait… it gets better! We arrived at the concert- which was outdoors in a park. The tables were full of women in beautiful colorful clothes- most but not all had their heads covered. Shahla told me that this was the upper religious class. We sat and listened to poetry and music revering Fatima. Then roses were passed out to all the women along with some cards with various quotes and pictures about Fatima. It was quite a beautiful event until cultural faux pas number 2 came up.
I had gotten dressed up to got to the exhibit but the concert was an added surprise and I was not prepared to attend that as well. I thought my clothes were modest enough-
my dress is below the knees when I’m standing up but has a tendency to creep when I’m sitting down. During the concert I was quite conscious of my dress- I was using Shahla’s big handbag to cover up a bit but after a while a young girl came over and whispered something to me which I didn’t quite understand but Shahla said that some people were concerned about how I was sitting. So we decided to leave and not insult anyone anymore. We told Elvin and he felt bad but I felt worse because I should know these things!! So I managed not only to insult one but a large number of the prominent members of the Muslim community here in Ganja. Terrible! What bothered me the most was that the excuse people use for me is that “She’s an American.” Well, how does that make American women look in their eyes? Disrespectful, ignorant and promiscuous?
I apologize for being a poor representative. I will try to do better in the future.
The other problem is that, this is the longest dress/skirt I have here. For everyday activities it really is no problem to have a skirt a little bit above the knees. But at religious events its not very good. Should you go to church in a mini-skirt and a tube top???